Beginners
Chess Ratings Explained
A chess rating is a number that estimates how strong you are compared with the other players in the same pool. It goes up when you score better than expected and down when you score worse. The number itself means nothing on its own; it only tells you something when you compare it with other ratings from the same system.
The Elo idea
Most chess ratings come from the system designed by Arpad Elo, a Hungarian-American physics professor and chess player. The United States Chess Federation adopted it in 1960, and FIDE, the international chess federation, adopted it in 1970. Its central idea is that the difference between two ratings predicts the result.
The predicted, or expected, score for a player is:
E = 1 / (1 + 10^((opponent's rating − your rating) / 400))
You do not need to calculate this by hand. What matters is what it says in practice:
| Rating difference | Expected score of the higher-rated player |
|---|---|
| 0 | 0.50 (50%) |
| 100 | about 0.64 |
| 200 | about 0.76 |
| 300 | about 0.85 |
| 400 | about 0.91 |
A draw counts as half a point. So a player rated 200 points above an opponent is expected to score about three points out of four over many games, not to win every time. Upsets are built into the system.
How your rating changes
After each game, your rating changes by a factor called K multiplied by the difference between your actual score and your expected score:
New rating = old rating + K × (actual score − expected score)
Suppose you are rated 1600, your opponent is 1800 and K is 20. Your expected score is about 0.24. If you win (score 1), you gain about 20 × 0.76, roughly 15 points. If you lose (score 0), you drop about 20 × 0.24, roughly 5 points. Beating stronger players earns a lot; losing to them costs little. The reverse is true against weaker opponents.
The K-factor controls how fast ratings move. FIDE uses a higher K for new players and juniors, so their ratings can catch up with their real strength quickly, and a lower K for established and top players, so a single bad tournament does not swing their rating too much.
FIDE, national and online ratings
There is no single chess rating. Each organisation runs its own pool, and the numbers are not directly comparable.
- FIDE ratings come from over-the-board games in FIDE-rated tournaments. FIDE publishes separate lists for standard (classical), rapid and blitz.
- National ratings, such as those of US Chess or the English Chess Federation, are run by national federations for their own events. They use their own formulas and starting points, so a US Chess rating and a FIDE rating for the same player can differ noticeably.
- Online ratings on sites such as Lichess and Chess.com are separate again, with a different number for each time control. Lichess uses the Glicko-2 system, a refinement of Elo that also tracks how reliable your rating is; a new account starts at 1500 with a large uncertainty, so early results move it a lot.
Why online numbers differ
Players are often confused that their online rating is far from their club rating, or that their Lichess and Chess.com numbers do not match. That is expected, for several reasons:
- Different starting points. Each pool sets its own starting rating and its own scale. A number only tells you where you stand inside that pool.
- Different player pools. Ratings are relative. If a pool contains many casual players, an average player in it ends up with a different number than the same player would have in a pool of tournament regulars.
- Different time controls. Bullet, blitz and rapid ratings measure different skills. Many strong over-the-board players are weaker at bullet, and some bullet specialists are less strong at slow chess.
- Different formulas. Glicko-style systems change ratings faster when your rating is uncertain, which makes new accounts swing much more than an established FIDE rating.
The useful comparison is always within the same system and time control. If your Lichess rapid rating climbs 150 points over six months, you have improved. Whether that number is "worth" a certain FIDE rating is guesswork.
What different ratings roughly mean
Ranges vary between systems, so treat these as rough guides for over-the-board ratings rather than fixed rules. Players rated below about 1200 are still learning to avoid leaving pieces unprotected. Club players in the 1400 to 1800 range know the basic tactics and openings but lose many games to tactical oversights. Above 2000, players calculate accurately, have a solid opening repertoire and understand endgames well. In US Chess, a rating of 2200 earns the title of National Master. The very top players in the world are rated above 2700 in FIDE's standard list, and Magnus Carlsen reached 2882 in 2014, the highest rating in the list's history.
FIDE titles and their rating thresholds
FIDE awards titles for life. Each title has a minimum rating; the two highest also require norms, which are strong performances in qualifying international tournaments.
| Title | Abbreviation | Minimum FIDE rating | Norms needed |
|---|---|---|---|
| Candidate Master | CM | 2200 | No |
| FIDE Master | FM | 2300 | No |
| International Master | IM | 2400 | Yes |
| Grandmaster | GM | 2500 | Yes |
There are also women's titles with lower thresholds: Woman Candidate Master (2000), Woman FIDE Master (2100), Woman International Master (2200) and Woman Grandmaster (2300). Women can and do earn the open titles as well; Judit Polgar became a grandmaster in 1991 at age 15. The rating needed for a title is reached once at any point; a title is not lost if the rating later drops.
Using your rating well
Ratings are useful for pairing, for choosing which tournament section to enter and for tracking progress. They are bad as a source of stress. Short-term swings of 50 points or more are normal, especially online, and they mostly reflect luck and form rather than real changes in strength.
- Track one rating at one time control, ideally rapid or classical, and look at the trend over months, not days.
- Judge yourself by the quality of your games: fewer blunders, better endgames, more opening knowledge. The rating follows.
- Play opponents slightly above your level when you can; the system rewards you most for beating them, and you learn the most from losing to them.
- Build the skills that move ratings with daily puzzles and a steady plan from how to study chess.